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| By (Photo by RNW) |
“A
milestone” heralding a new chapter in the relationship between Myanmar and the
US said a smiling Burmese president Thein Sein as he met with US Secretary of
State Hillary Clinton on Thursday. The most senior American official to visit
the country in more than half a century, she told the president she was
“encouraged” by the recent moves towards reform in Myanmar, also known as Burma.
But while Washington may be eager to encourage that process of reform, it’s
also wary of China’s increasing influence in the resource-rich country.
It’s
morning rush hour in a popular teahouse in the centre of Rangoon. Around the
crowded tables people are reading the papers and talking about the latest news.
The
political situation is changing fast and there is plenty to talk about. One of
the customers enthusiastically displays the front page of a weekly magazine. It
carries a picture of a broadly-smiling Zarganar, an outspoken comedian recently
released from prison.
A few
months ago his name was banned. But now his jokes find their way into print and
people dare to chuckle openly.
Reforms
“We have
come a long way,” agrees the teashop owner, but he adds that the government is
still wary about implementing reforms. “They need a lot of encouragement and
praise, especially from the international community.”
He has
pasted his own contribution on the teashop wall. “Thank you president for the
decision you have made,” it reads in curling Burmese script, followed by: “Condemn China for exploiting our country for
their own benefit.”
Will of the
people
The poster
refers to a surprise announcement by Thein Sein, who early this year became
Burma’s first “civilian” president, to suspend a huge Chinese-funded
hydro-power project in Kachin State. The reason, he said, was that the project
was “contrary to the will of the people”.
The
people’s will has not, in the past, been much of a consideration for Myanmar’s
military rulers and Zarganar recalls that the announcement was greeted in his
prison with “loud whoops of joy. Some prisoners took their shirts off and
danced around.”
China's
kitchen
The
euphoria stemmed from more than just environmental concerns. Ordinary people
feel that China’s investments bring them no benefits. Power generated by the
dam was earmarked for export to China while many households in Burma have no
electricity.
As one old
monk put it: “We have become China’s kitchen: they take the food and leave us
the rubbish.”
Suspicion
Shunned by
the West, Myanmar has fallen ever more closely into China’s orbit. Beijing is
the country’s biggest foreign investor. Apart from hydro-power, China’s
ambitious plans include mining and infrastructure projects, a deep-sea port for
oil tankers that will be connected with China by highway, railway and an oil
pipeline.
China also
hopes to re-establish its southern ‘silk route’, with Bangladesh and
India. Many Burmese, including
government officials, view their mighty northern neighbour with deep
suspicion. The older generation in the
army cut their teeth fighting against a Chinese-backed Communist insurgency in
the 1960s. It left them weary.
Conspicuous
Chinese consumption
It is
partly the fear of anti-Chinese protests and of being too reliant on China that
has motivated the current leaders to mend fences with the West. Resentment of
China’s expanding economic footprint is growing. Between 1and 2 million Chinese
nationals have moved into northern Myanmar where they dominate the lucrative
jade-and-gem trade.
With their
profits they have bought up most of the commercial centres of Mandalay and
Myitkyina. There they flaunt their wealth and the most expensive cars all have
Chinese number plates. Land prices are rising sharply as prime locations are
snapped up by Chinese businessmen.
The influx
of business people has also spawned prostitution. Church leaders in Myitkyina
say Chinese now make up more than half the population and many locals feel the
northern states are becoming de facto provinces of China.
Just say no
Myanmar’s
leaders were quick to reassure China that their projects were safe after
suspending the Kachin State project. But for many Burmese the abandoned dam
site, the scarred hills and half-finished concrete embankments, at the
birthplace of Burma’s revered Irrawaddy River, symbolise that their leaders can
say no to China.
Combined
with the hope of renewed contact with the West symbolised by Clinton’s visit
that might encourage them to press the regime to put a stop to China’s fast
growing influence in their country.
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